I am not really sure why they are called waterfalls, since they involve neither water, nor falling, but that is what they were called when I first encountered them, so that is what I call them now.
The original pattern I got was for a 5x5 square card with only 3 cascading panels. The pattern didn't fit on 8.5x11 paper, so I never used it, since I only have access to that size paper. I don't have a template for a 5x5 envelope to send that size card out, either. So I decided to try to make up a pattern that I could use on my standard size card stock and that would fit in a regular A-2 envelope.
The pattern that resulted is the one on which this class will be based. If you haven't gotten it already it can be found and printed from my web site. Here's the link:
http://www.stampohmania.com/pages/howto/waterfall.htm
This page will focus on the assembly of a waterfall card, not on creating a particular stamped and finished version. I will, though, provide some tips and tricks on stamping that may make it easier for you when you stamp your own.
The materials you will need for this project are:
Printed copy of pattern (I like to cut the pattern and the cardstock simultaneously so I need a new copy of the pattern for each card I make)
1 sheet 8.5" x 11" cardstock
1 5.5" x 4.25" folded card
sharp craft knife for cutting pattern
straight edge for cutting pattern
glues (I like to use Tombow MonoAdhesives: to hold my pattern in place I use the repositionable; I use the permanent adhesive for final gluing)
pencil or disappearing ink marker
stamps and inks of your choice
This is the most critical part of the whole project. The measurements, cuts, and folds must be accurate or the project will not cascade correctly once assembled.
My preferred way of putting the pattern onto the cardstock is to use temporary/repositionable glue to attach the pattern to the cardstock, and to cut through both the pattern and the cardstock simultaneously. This enables me to cut the pattern quickly and accurately without having to do a lot of measuring and marking. The drawback, of course, is that the pattern is destroyed so I need to print a new one each time I want to make a card. But I can live with that!
If you prefer to measure everything or to make a permanent pattern to trace, that is ok too. Just be sure your cardstock is cut accurately.
When you print the pattern, if your lines don't extend all the way to the edges of your paper, use a ruler and a pencil to continue the lines to the edges. Those gaps are unfortunate byproducts of using printers that have margins that won't print. All of the lines should go right to the edges.
Cut along all solid lines, including the slot. There is an area on the flap that has an extra heavy line... this should be cut out completely, leaving a narrow gap along the edges of the tab. Discard the pieces marked on the pattern as scrap. You should now have five squares of cardstock (flaps) and one mechanism piece. (Picture #1)
Using the pattern as a guide, score the mechanism on the WRONG side of the cardstock on every dotted line.
Fold the mechanism at every score line so that there is a mountain fold on the RIGHT side of the cardstock at every dotted line in the pattern.
(For the uninitiated, the terms mountain and valley folds come from Origami. A mountain fold would be made by putting the wrong sides together, a valley fold would be made by putting the right sides together. )
It is ok at this stage to lightly crease the score lines, or you can stamp the mechanism first if you prefer. For the purposes of this class, it might be better for you to simply put one of the cards together, and worry about stamping one later. It is a lot easier to stamp one AFTER you have seen one work...
When you are stamping the card it is best to stamp the squares BEFORE attaching them. The best way to stamp them is to use temporary adhesive to attach them to the mechanism and use either a pencil or disappearing ink marker to show where the flaps overlap. Then remove the flaps in order and stamp them, keeping the overlap in mind as you plan and execute your stamped images. Finally the squares would be reattached, permanently this time, to the mechanism in the same order and location as in the planning stage.
Having said all that, I am going to go through this process one step at a time with you.
I am going to take the last square, square # 5, and attach it by a small amount of temporary adhesive, just barely below the edge of the fold on the mechanism closest to the cut slot. (Picture #2)
Next, I attach square #4 to the edge of the next higher fold.
I am going to continue attaching squares to the mechanism in this manner until I have all of the squares attached. (Picture #3)
Ok; I have all my squares (flaps) temporarily attached to the folds of the mechanism. Now I am going to mark each of the squares lightly with pencil or with disappearing ink so that I will know which parts of the flaps are visible when the mechanism is flat, and which parts will be exposed as they cascade.
I will now remove the flaps and stamp them according to what I know is visible and not visible on the card.
Remember! The part that is visible when the card is flat STAYS visible when the card cascades, but all the other parts of the flap become visible at that time, too, including the back.
Once stamped I will permanently attach the flaps to the card in the same location in which they had been temporarily affixed. Be sure that the glue is placed in a narrow line right at the top edge of the flap and that it extends completely to the corners of the flap. The permanent monoadhesive is really perfect for this...
To "arm" the mechanism is to make it possible for it to work. All that is needed for this process is to take the long tab that is extended above the flaps back along the wrong side of the mechanism, and then through the slot to the right side of the mechanism. Pulling on this tab will cause the cascade.(Picture #5)
To attach the mechanism to the card, put glue on the right side of the mechanism on the two panels to the far left and far right of the mechanism, next to the lines which have been scored to allow these panels to fold under the mechanism. These panels are the only portions of the mechanism that are glued to the card, which enables the rest of the mechanism to move freely. You may attach the mechanism to either the outside or the inside of the card.(Picture #6)
Now that we've completed the waterfalls, I'd like to make some suggestions for stamping them...
Small images work best. The larger images won't fit in the small hidden portions of the flaps without hanging out and spoiling the visual impact. If you have to use bigger images, then you'll want to get really good at using your stamp positioner to ensure the images continue properly across flaps.
One of my favorite things to do is stamp a flower "garden" with lots of small flowers on the visible parts of the flaps. I stamp "Happiness" "blooms" "in my" "garden" on the hidden parts of the flaps with more flowers on the backs of the flaps too.
I hope you'll have a lot of fun experimenting with these cascading cards... I sure have!
And I hope you have enjoyed the class.
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